Designers know what they’re getting when they work with Isamaya Ffrench, the makeup artist and founder of the makeup line Isamaya — and it’s never “French girl” beauty or “no-makeup makeup,” fashion week clichés for designers who prefer that beauty silently accessorize their clothes with invisible makeup and non-hairstyles.
In February, Ms. Ffrench spent days prepping prosthetics and special effects for the Collina Strada “Don’t Eat My Friends” show, in which models were turned into birds with exaggerated foam beaks or cats with rhinestone patchwork ears. At Dion Lee, Ms. Ffrench liquefied iridescent green eye shadow so she could airbrush it over laser-cut, lizard-effect stencils. Models looked like really pretty reptiles.
Ms. Ffrench, 33, is known in fashion circles for the off-kilter runway beauty she has created for such labels as Thom Browne, Vivienne Westwood, Junya Watanabe, Balmain and Off-White. For her latest gig as the beauty curator at Off-White, she’ll develop beauty offerings with Ib Kamara, its art and image director. (Ms. Ffrench was behind the space-age silver eyebrows, black glossy eyelids and silver eyelets on models’ faces at Off-White show in Paris last week.)
Now Ms. Ffrench’s own beauty brand — most notably, a recent collection of lipsticks in penis-shaped tubes — is drawing attention from mainstream beauty shoppers.
“I’m really happy it was as well received as it was,” Ms. Ffrench said in an interview. “I would have been bummed out with society if it wasn’t.”