Neil Grotzinger’s brand Nihl has become synonymous with the exploration of queer sensuality through subversive couture-like constructions. This season he opted to forgo what is widely considered the structural nature of creating a typical collection, which resulted in an exploration of garments rooted in sensory experiences with the use of color and texture to bridge the intersection of feelings we are experiencing during quarantine.
The look: Moments within the lineup are meant to conjure up a style of fetishization of certain textures, which have a particular influence on the way the wearer feels while wearing them.
Quote of note: “I’m always curious about oppositional forces, creating a grander spectrum of what queerness looks like and what the specificity of nonbinary-ness could be.”
Nihl RTW Fall 2021
Standout pieces: Chiffon bodysuits created with seams that cut through the torso and drape at the legs to create a cooling sensation; head-to-toe looks constructed entirely from plastic (lined with tissue paper and adorned with price tag stickers) used to wrap furniture with an element of corseting to inform posture and create a feeling of stiffness, and a shiny black jacket and trouser set made from deadstock vinyl.
The takeaway: Grotzinger’s radical queer future designs affirm that fashion can be whatever it wants to be and that it doesn’t have to serve the same purpose it used to, all while creating a fantasy or aspirational reality that projects a feeling of what people are longing for in this current state.
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